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Winterizing includes batteries

Columns by local outdoorsman Bob Jones
appear weekly In the Sunday News Journal.

With hunting seasons under way and warm breezes giving way to chilly winds, boat-owners are facing the task of adding stabilizer to the fuel tanks, fogging the engine and tying down the tarp or boat cover.

But according to DieHard Marine batteries spokesman Bill Aucoin, many boaters are not aware that winterizing also includes taking care of their boat's battery. Failure to do so usually means a spring trip to the boat dealer or automotive supply to replace a battery that no longer holds its charge.

To help boaters get the longest, service from their marine cranking and deep cycle batteries, Aucoin provided step-by-step recommendations for winterizing the heart of a boat's electrical system.

"First off, wear old clothes because you'll be working close to battery acid, which can burn a hole in clothing," he said. "Protect your eyes. And, for safety's sake, mix a solution of baking soda and water [50-50] and keep it nearby so you can use it to neutralize any acid spills."

To winterize your boat's battery, follow these simple steps:

  • Disconnect your marine batteries and remove them from the boat and from the elements.
  • Inspect the cables and connectors. Repair or replace them now, if necessary, not in the spring when the fish are biting.
  • Clean and brush the cable connectors with a wire brush, removing the crusty corrosion buildup. Coat the connectors with white grease to help maintain good contact between the connectors and batteries.
  • Wire brush the battery posts to remove the white, crusty material. Coat the terminals with white grease or petroleum jelly to help ward off the effects of corrosion.
  • With a disposable rag, wipe the crud, dirt and grit from the battery cases.
  • Dip another rag into a neutralizing solution of baking soda and water, half-and-half. Wring out the excess fluid and wipe down the battery cases.
  • Check the battery acid levels. Add distilled water or de-ionized water, as required, to bring electrolyte levels to within one-eighth of an inch of the bottom of the vent well, or one-fourth of an inch from the bottom if the battery is discharged. Don't overfill, or sulfuric acid can escape out of the vents. Don't use tap water or well water, which may contain chlorine, iron or salts that will harm the battery.
  • Recharge your batteries. Wear goggles and old clothes. Do not overcharge. Excessive overcharging causes electrolyte loss and the interior plates to shed their active material, reducing capacity. Never charge a frozen battery. Always charge in a well-ventilated area.
  • Cold-weather charging requirements make a strong recommendation for the use of a "smart" battery charger equipped with a microprocessor capable of recharging each battery according to its own particular needs.
  • Store batteries in a cool, dry and well-ventilated place, far away from the furnace. Make sure they are out of reach from kids and pets. A temperature of about 50 degrees is ideal. Your garage is fine for storage as long as the temperature inside doesn't dip below freezing. A frozen battery is a dead battery. Never try to charge a frozen battery.
  • While your batteries are stored, they'll slowly lose their charge. Check them monthly. Restore water levels, then bring the batteries up to a full charge if needed.

    A charged battery lasts longer than a battery in a discharged state. Maintenance-free gel cell batteries follow the same winterizing routine except you cannot add more electrolyte. Do not overcharge a gel cell battery or charge it too quickly. If you do, the gel in the battery can heat up, dry out and pull away from the lead plates.

WILMINGTON NEWS JOURNAL 11/4/2000